1分快三玩法

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Fashion


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Intellectual Stimulation


1分快三玩法Arthur Arbesser brings eye-catching snap to his referential autumn/winter 2019 collection

Intellectual Stimulation


Arthur Arbesser brings eye-catching snap to his referential autumn/winter 2019 collection

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Intellectual Stimulation

September 4, 2019 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

1分快三玩法Austrian-born, Milan-based designer Arthur Arbesser isn’t afraid to channel some lofty and distinguished names when it comes to his design – be it Egon Schiele, Sigmund Freud or Gustav Klimt – and this has given his clothes the cachet of a kind of intellectual glamour. The Central Saint Martins graduate lives and works in Milan’s Sant’Ambrogio neighbourhood, a conservative enclave where women parade around in their Casentino wool jackets (worn by the aristocratic Italian families of yore, originally with an outer cape) and from which Arbesser has drawn inspiration, along with the traditional Austrian loden jacket. 

Autumn/winter 2019 sees a contrast of high-necked harlequin-check sweaters, classic quilted coats, pleated check skirts and shirts, mohair tank tops and scarves, egg-yolk yellow trousers (from meringue to material girl), Bauhaus geometric patterns and saturated splashes of manga on metallic-blue boots. Arbesser also invokes pomegranate, fig and lychee prints on flowing silk skirts and suits, which gives the collection a delectable quality. Ultimately, this eye-catching body of work runs the gamut of influence, from Japanese zen to a demi-pastiche of Arbesser’s native Tyrolean and Alpine palette.

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Images: Henrik Blomqvist

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Breaking the Waves


Whether bronzing at the beach or sipping poolside cocktails, look to the iconic beach belles and beaus of the 1950s and ’60s for timeless examples of elegant shoreside attire

Breaking the Waves


1分快三玩法Whether bronzing at the beach or sipping poolside cocktails, look to the iconic beach belles and beaus of the 1950s and ’60s for timeless examples of elegant shoreside attire

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Breaking the Waves

August 7, 2019 / by Felix Williams

above image: Lobby card for Stanley Kubrick’s 1962 film Lolita, starring Sue Lyon

Elizabeth Taylor, circa 1955

Elizabeth Taylor, circa 1955

It’s fairly indisputable – French screen siren Brigitte Bardot is the pinnacle of boho beach chic. She paired her signature wide-brimmed floppy hat with striking bikinis, blonde beach locks and kohl eyeliner for an effortlessly cool look. Her beach style was epitomised in the 1962 film A Very Private Affair; the St Tropez style launched the two-piece as an iconic swimwear garment that endures to this day. In the same year, Sue Lyon controversially wore a patterned bikini and a wide-brimmed hat in Stanley Kubrick’s Lolita, creating an innocent and playful beachwear look.

1分快三玩法For a more pristine look, style icon Grace Kelly was always a portrait of elegance. She wore white bikinis, and even a leopard-print bathing suit. The one-piece was a favourite of 1950s stylistas from Sophia Loren to Elizabeth Taylor; the latter paired hers with striking red lipstick. Marilyn Monroe famously posed in a flattering white swimsuit, as a sweetheart neckline one-piece in various hues became her favourite splash. Movie star and synchronised swimming icon Esther Williams glided across the screen in desirable swimsuits during her 1950s blockbusters, even launching a swimwear brand that offers women the chance to emulate her beach attire and continues to this day.

Sandra Dee’s role in 1959 comedy Gidget saw her in cute red swimsuits and orange two-pieces, paired with her sporty blonde ponytail. In 1967 romance Two for the Road, Audrey Hepburn wears cotton shirting over her swimsuits, as well as red-and-white tops layered over red swimwear. In 1958 drama Bonjour Tristesse, Jean Seberg dons an oversized denim shirt over her swimwear, showing an effortless stylish choice for those not keen on a kaftan. 

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The aptly named 1969 film La Piscine (The Swimming Pool) sees French actress and trendsetter Jane Birkin donning a white bikini alongside the smouldering menswear style icon Alain Delon. The 1960s sex symbol was famed for his sharp tailoring, while on the beach he looked to well-fitted shorts in white, which showed off his fashionable tan.

The 1959 dramaFrom Here to Eternity sees Montgomery Clift wear classic hibiscus-print shorts paired with Cuban-collar shirts in the Hawaii-set film. Set in the late 1950s, the 1999 film The Talented Mr Ripley1分快三玩法 soaks up the sublime surroundings of Italy; Jude Law’s wardrobe is full of refined menswear options as he strolls from the beach to town. The film’s Riviera-style resort wear ranges from patterned shorts matched with open-neck white shirts to white linen trousers rolled up at the ankles with cream-coloured short-sleeved shirts.

More than 50 years on, these icons of cinema remain the epitome of beach style.

Audrey Hepburn on the set of  Two for the Road , 1967

Audrey Hepburn on the set of Two for the Road, 1967

Brigitte Bardot in France, 1967

Brigitte Bardot in France, 1967

Images: Images: Silver Screen Collection/Moviepix, via Getty Images (Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn); Jean-Pierre Bonnotte/Gamma-Rapho, via Getty Images (Brigitte Bardot); Pierluigi Praturlon/Reporters Associati & Archivi/Mondadori, via Getty Images (Stanley Kubrick)

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Dos and Don'ts for the Beach


Whether Bali’s crowded beaches or some secluded sandy shores take your fancy, beachgoers need to be in the know in terms of refinement. Just because you’ve checked into vacation mode doesn’t mean your manners and proper etiquette should have checked out. Peruse our dos and don’ts to make sure you’re the chicest and most admired at the beach this summer

Dos and Don'ts for the Beach


Whether Bali’s crowded beaches or some secluded sandy shores take your fancy, beachgoers need to be in the know in terms of refinement. Just because you’ve checked into vacation mode doesn’t mean your manners and proper etiquette should have checked out. Peruse our dos and don’ts to make sure you’re the chicest and most admired at the beach this summer

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Dos and Don’ts for the Beach

August 7, 2019 / by F. W. 

Do: 

  • Invest in high-quality waterproof mascara. Leave the panda eyes to the fluffy cuties in Chengdu.

  • 1分快三玩法Avoid the awkward my-feet-are-on-fire dash to the sea by donning a pair of chic flip-flops to keep your cool right up to the surf.  

  • Come well prepared and avoid the struggle to keep your modesty under your beach towel by wearing your one- or two-piece under your kaftan.

  • Remember to douse yourself in sunscreen unless you fancy lobster-red sunburn: not fun, not comfy and guaranteed to make you the butt of office jokes for the rest of the summer.

  • Sport a sleek pair of sunglasses poolside. Not only will they keep those evil UV rays at bay, but they’re also the perfect mask to hide behind when checking everyone else out. 

 

Don’t:

  • Settle for a snooze in the sun and forget to put your book away. A book-shaped suntan is never à la mode.
  • Forget your headphones. Did anyone else sign up to hear your cheesy summer tunes? No, we didn’t think so.
  • Go for avant-garde swimwear designers with fancy cut-outs and asymmetrical details. They may look stunning in a fashion shoot, but trust us; the resulting uneven tan will be eye-catching for all the wrong reasons.
  • Put the sand into sandwiches. Leave this classic lunchtime dish at home where it belongs and instead bring a selection of fresh fruit for a light snack.
  • Run across the sand as though you’re auditioning for Baywatch; leave it to the pros. Plus, the sand flying off your feet peppering nearby sunbathers won’t be welcomed and instead of admirers, you’ll find a rowdy rabble on your trail.
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Say it with a Fan


1分快三玩法An iconic accessory throughout history, the hand fan is making a comeback – and you’d better know its secret, bewitching language

Say it with a Fan


An iconic accessory throughout history, the hand fan is making a comeback – and you’d better know its secret, bewitching language

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Say it with a Fan

July 24, 2019 / by Marine Orlova


From judicial sentences in imperial China to gallant chats at Marie Antoinette’s royal court, the fan has long been used to convey messages. Unisex, elegant, and both useful and futile, fans reveal as much as they hide. Here are three ways to cool yourself down in style while flirting with some exciting codes of seduction.


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1. Fancy

Spending a night at the opera so you can whisper sweet nothings into the ear of your betrothed? Don’t forget your hand fan. When it comes to being sophisticated and unique, these elegant little wings are a girl’s true best friend. What’s more perfect for showing off than this precious, light accessory? Be it one of silk gauze, satin or leather, or with some magnificent embroidery, you’ll surely find the perfect fan to enhance your beauty and bring a breath of fresh air between the two arias.

French fanmaker Sylvain Le Guen, who designed custom creations for Sofia Coppola’s 2006 film Marie Antoinette, defines his fans as pieces of art. “I see the fan as an extension of the hand and I want it to be its owner’s mirror, whether he or she is strong, glamorous, bold or refined,” he says. “I thus love to play with different materials such as light feathers, thick paper or sequined silk to create pieces that merge art and fashion.”

As soon as you enter the opera house, your magnetic presence will arouse lust and desire in the hearts of countless admirers – and that may be way too much to handle for a single woman. Don’t panic – rely on a little help from your fan. Flutter it to say “I’m engaged” or wave it slowly to say “I’m married” and they’ll be sure to keep a safe distance.

 

2. Fantasy

Getting ready for a romantic rendezvous? No doubt you’ve painted your lips red, perfumed your hair delicately and are probably about to wear your highest heels as you become the ultimate femme fatale. But if you want to raise your man-eater style to the next level and stack the odds in your favour, dare to play with your erotic fan. After a couple of slight movements, the temperatures will rise and you won’t be able to blame them on global warming.

French label En Cas de Chaleur offers boudoir-inspired fans, featuring endless legs, fetish shoes and other licentious drawings. “I create seductive art objects, both playful and precious,” says Elsa Fabrega, the young creator of En Cas de Chaleur. “My fans are small worlds full of fantasies, the relevance within the impertinence. I couldn’t agree more with Picasso when he says that art can be nothing but erotic.”

Night is falling and the moonlight is shining – it’s time for action. Close your fan and let it touch your cheek to say “I love you”. Then point it at your chin to ask for a kiss.

 

3. Fantastic 

1分快三玩法Looking to flee your daily routine? Whether you want to surprise your lover or feel like a showgirl for a night, feather fans are a perfect choice. Put the music on, slip into your most titillating lingerie and play behind larger-than-life two feather fans. Needless to say, this sort of dance has to be performed at the right place and time, say, for a small audience in the hushed atmosphere of your most private room.

As a world-renowned burlesque dancer, Sucre d’Orge knows her feathers very well. “To dance with this prop, you should really feel like a bird and consider feathers as a part of your body,” she explains. “I even used to joke about having learned how to move with feather fans during an internship on a South African ostrich farm. Fly off and take your audience to the moon.”

The fan dance offers many classical figures such as the peacock tail, the shell or the hide-and-seek step – but to be fair, they all share the same basic meaning: “Let’s do it.”

Images: En Cas de Chaleur; Stephen Jackson; Sands Hotel Collection 0287 B25 F11A 8002/UNLV Libraries Special Collections (Copa girls with blue ostrich feather fans in Las Vegas, circa 1955); Nathalie Baetens

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In the Mood for Gloves


Grace Kelly famously said: “Nobody came to see me before wearing white gloves.” From your car seat to the most distinguished garden party, put your gloves on and steal the limelight from any princess

In the Mood for Gloves


Grace Kelly famously said: “Nobody came to see me before wearing white gloves.” From your car seat to the most distinguished garden party, put your gloves on and steal the limelight from any princess

Lifestyle > Fashion


In the Mood for Gloves

July 24, 2019 / by Marine Orlova

1分快三玩法Let’s start with a fairy tale. Once upon a time, there was a woman who had a magical wooden box, carefully stored in her wardrobe. If you had the chance to open it, you could smell a delicate perfume of musk and discover numerous treasures made of leather and silk – her collection of gloves. She had one pair for each hour of the day – long ones, short ones, pale pink to deep black, embroidered or not. They were so tight that she had to put some talc on her fingers before slipping them in. But once she was gloved, every gesture she made was like a caress. No one could resist the fascinating power of her hands. 

Too good to be true? This was the elegant woman’s daily routine before the 1930s, when gloves were a staple of the feminine wardrobe. “Back in the days, women possessed 15 pairs of gloves and they took care of them in order to wear them as long as possible,” explains Olivier Causse of French glovemaker Maison Causse. Indeed, they were kept safe from the sun in a dedicated box; the leather was regularly nourished and, obviously, they weren’t meant to be crushed in a woman’s handbag. “Today, gloves are considered to be more of a fashion accessory, worn for a season or two,” says Causse. “Still, we love to manufacture them the way my ancestors did for more than 120 years: made to last.”

Baby, you can drive my car

Gloves have always been a must-have for drivers, whether holding the reins of a horse-drawn carriage or sitting behind the wheel of a modern automobile. Open on the top and made of hole-punched leather, driving gloves are designed to keep the hands dry and fresh. “People who love cars and have the chance to drive a nice one know the unique sensation of driving gloves,” says Causse. “They offer comfort and protection, and give a better grip. To grasp the wheel with gloved hands is definitely part of a luxurious driving experience.”

Even if you don’t drive an expensive racing car every day, be sure they’ll make you feel – and look – like the reincarnation of Gatsby. And after your regal ride, don’t forget to stash them in the glove compartment, or they may be stolen by some of your more unscrupulous passengers…  

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Length matters

On the length of gloves, connoisseurs advise you in unison: the shorter the sleeve, the longer the glove. Indeed, gloves are basically made to extend the sleeve length. The most famous long ones are the opera gloves. Covering the elbow and usually made of silk or satin, they’re perfect for accessorising sleeveless or short-sleeved evening gowns – and they’re sexy as hell when worn with a strapless dress. Have fun and play it like Rita Hayworth in Gilda1分快三玩法 while you glamorously peel one off… 

1分快三玩法If you want to go further, there are even longer gloves. “The longest ones come up to the armpit and are called the 18 buttons,” explains Causse. “It refers to the number of buttons sewn along the glove, which was used as a unit of measure – 18 was the maximum possible length.” You may want to note, however, that these gloves are heavily embedded in the fetish world and probably not ideal for the first encounter with your future mother-in-law.

Gloves 2.0

1分快三玩法You’ve probably noticed that you need to remove your rings when wearing gloves. But there’s a solution for those who want to show off their gems: fingerless gloves. Despite their casual modern look, they actually have ancient origins. Close your eyes and imagine you’re back in ancient Greece as a young athlete takes a break between fights. He wraps his hands with leather strips, thus wearing the oldest form of fingerless gloves. Since those days, they have been worn for ages, from the Renaissance to the 19th century. 

“Fingerless gloves are among our bestsellers,” says Causse. “They’re everyday go-to gloves that women love to wear when they want to add a hint of sophistication to their look. They come in different lengths, fabrics and styles, from rock ’n’ roll leather to the most refined lace.” The funny thing is that the fad for smartphones probably contributes to this success – because fingerless gloves are really helpful when it comes to sending text messages.

Images: Hulton Archive/Getty Images (woman in car, 1955); Columbia Pictures/Sunset Boulevard/Corbis, via Getty Images (Rita Hayworth in Gilda); Silver Screen Collection/Hulton Archive/Moviepix, via Getty Images (Edmond O’Brien & Grace Kelly)

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Sunny Side Up


Classic shapes get a stylish makeover with quirky and refreshing details for summer

Sunny Side Up


1分快三玩法Classic shapes get a stylish makeover with quirky and refreshing details for summer

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Sunny Side Up

July 24, 2019 / by Marine Orlova

Aviator Style

In 1937, Ray-Ban created the first polarised sunglasses – for United States Air Force pilots. The large lenses (originally green) were made to give eyes in the sky optimal protection and crystal-clear vision. Easily recognisable by their thin metallic frame with a double bridge and their teardrop shape, they were very trendy during the ’50s – every man wanted to be imbued with their heroic vibes. Want to channel your inner Tom Cruise in Top Gun? Get a pair of aviators and make them your own; it fits just about everyone and looks just as badass on the sidewalk as it does in the cockpit of a fighter jet.


’60s Chic

In 1952, when the sunglasses style was all about metallic frames and the aviator shape, Ray-Ban launched the Wayfarer, a dramatically different model using a relatively new material called acetate. They were mistakenly associated with Audrey Hepburn’s look in 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s – in fact, she wore a pair of Oliver Goldsmith shades. Funnily enough, the movie significantly contributed to the fame of the Wayfarer. Mysterious, modern and dark, they’re still a safe bet for hiding sleepy eyes or escaping from the paparazzi. And since they’re unisex, remember that sharing is caring.

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Going Round

1分快三玩法Round-shaped sunglasses are a key feature of the hippie dress code – how could we forget John Lennon’s iconic look? Far from the mood of cat-eye sunglasses, which perfectly embody Hollywood glamour and drama, round frames express intellectualism and a laid-back spirit. If you have a square face, dare to wear lenses as round as goggles; they’ll soften your angles. If not, go for a slightly more elongated model and enjoy their quirky retro look. Now you’re part of the circle alongside Diane Keaton (pictured below), Mahatma Gandhi and Harry Potter. Round-shaped sunglasses are a key feature of the hippie dress code – how could we forget John Lennon’s iconic look? Far from the mood of cat-eye sunglasses, which perfectly embody Hollywood glamour and drama, round frames express intellectualism and a laid-back spirit. If you have a square face, dare to wear lenses as round as goggles; they’ll soften your angles. If not, go for a slightly more elongated model and enjoy their quirky retro look. Now you’re part of the circle alongside Diane Keaton (pictured below), Mahatma Gandhi and Harry Potter.


Bigger and Bolder

If your desire to be seen exceeds the mere practical need to see, oversized shades are for you. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis made bug-eyed sunglasses her famous signature. To emulate her elegant style, make her shades your own and choose the Spa 2 or Jacky 1 models that François Pinton designed for her in the ’60s. Otherwise, make your own stylish statement and go for contemporary yet fabulous oversized sunglasses – but be sure they’re suitable before you splash out on the craziest design.

Images: Paramount Pictures/Sunset Boulevard/Corbis Historical, via Getty Images (Tom Cruise); Mondadori Portfolio/Getty Images (Audrey Hepburn); United Artists/Moviepix, via Getty Images (Diane Keaton); Paul Popper/Popperfoto, via Getty Images (Jacqueline Onassis)

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The Evolution of Men’s Swimwear


1分快三玩法Beach fashions and advances in textile technology have influenced men’s swimwear throughout the decades

The Evolution of Men’s Swimwear


Beach fashions and advances in textile technology have influenced men’s swimwear throughout the decades

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

The Evolution of Men’s Swimwear

July 10, 2019 / by Scarlett Thomas

Who can forget that image of a glistening, perfectly toned Daniel Craig as 007 emerging from the sea in his blue swimming trunks in 2006’s Casino Royale1分快三玩法? When you create your own Bond moment at the beach, be thankful that those wool costumes of yore are no longer in fashion.

We’ve been taking to the water since time immemorial, but the two-century history of bathing and swimwear has involved several revolutions in style, fit and fabric. For centuries, swimming was a male-only preserve and the first swimmers thought nothing of jumping in the water as nature intended. 

1分快三玩法In the late 19th century, male swimmers would don cumbersome, boxy woollen garments, but by the 1920s water-clogged woven flannel swimsuits had become a sodden memory. The fashion for suntans meant both men and women wanted more revealing, tighter-fitting costumes, and so American swimwear company Jantzen developed unisex knitted wool costumes; they became the suits that changed bathing into swimming. The Olympic swimming champion Johnny Weissmuller famously sported one of the first pairs of trunks in the ’30s and by the end of the decade, men swam away from the one-piece silhouette.

Textile innovations led to the invention of tiny nylon and spandex briefs by US swimwear label Speedo in the late ’50s, while in the ’90s the same company led the emergence of super-fast full and half-length body suits. A red trunk-clad David Hasselhoff stomping around babe-filled Los Angeles beaches in Baywatch helped to make trunks a must-have swimwear item for men worldwide in the ’90s, but at the same time, the surfer revolution ushered in the knee-length, loose board shorts that are one of the most common silhouettes on the world’s beaches today.

Recent textile innovations have played a crucial role in smashing Olympic records, as well as resisting chlorine damage and providing protection against harmful UV rays. What further seismic changes will the world of swimwear fashions deliver? Ask your local scientist. 

Image: John Springer Collection/ corbis historical via Getty Images

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Keeping Cool


1分快三玩法For centuries, the handheld fan endured as a fashion accessory and even became a tool for secret communication

Keeping Cool


For centuries, the handheld fan endured as a fashion accessory and even became a tool for secret communication

Lifestyle > Fashion


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Keeping Cool

July 10, 2019 / by Zhang Mengyi

1分快三玩法Eastern and Western cultures alike have embraced the traditional handheld fan, not only as a temperature-cooling instrument, but also as an accessory that adds a delicate silhouette to a look. For a long time in Europe, these beautiful items were must-have accessories in high society and a true fashion statement for women.

The earliest hand fan was called flabellum and first appeared in ancient Egypt as a tool to keep insects away – an example was found in the tomb of Tutankhamun. In its modern incarnation for air flow, handheld fans were first seen in Japan around the sixth century CE. However, it wasn’t until the 17th century, when huge quantities of folding fans were exported from China and Japan to Europe, that they became true fashion staples. In that era, nobility and royalty had multiple fans for a variety of uses – one in the morning, another at night, yet another in the street and yet another for important occasions. 

1分快三玩法In 1709, the Worshipful Company of Fan Makers was incorporated in London under the Royal Charter of Queen Anne. Its aim was to help expand the local fan business – paper styles were developed and many artists painted on them, creating a plethora of artworks. 

At around the same time, artisans in France were making fans using imported Chinese bamboo sticks, ostrich feathers, parchment, silk and lace, mounted on ivory or cane and mother-of-pearl. Paris soon became the centre of the fan craft and led the craze among European royalty. 

1分快三玩法During the Victorian era, the fan reached the peak of its success as it became more accessible for the emerging middle class. Later on, the slimmer silhouette in fashion encouraged a new style: cockade fans. The leaf could open into a complete circle, but came with a more simple design. As the times changed yet again, in the 20th century they began to fall out of favour, and were primarily used as souvenirs, decorations or advertisements. 

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1分快三玩法In a time when women were restricted by social etiquette norms, the fan was also used as a means of communication. A book published in 1797, Fanology or the Ladies Conversation Fan, gave a list of explicit instructions on how to use it to convey discreet messages. According to the book, the English alphabet was divided into five hand positions (with the letter J excluded): 

  • Hold the fan in left hand and touch your right arm = A–E
  • Hold the fan in right hand and touch your left arm = F–K
  • Place the fan against your heart = L–P
  • Raise the fan to your mouth = Q–U
  • Raise the fan to your forehead = V–Z

If you find those rules difficult to remember, especially for more complex sentences, these were some of the more commonly used gestures of the day:

  • Hold the fan with your right hand in front of your face: Follow me.
  • Place the fan near your heart: I love you.
  • Drop the fan: We can be friends.
  • Fan self slowly: I’m married.
  • Fan self quickly: I’m engaged.
  • Open the fan wide: Wait for me.
  • Press a half-closed fan to your lips: You may kiss me.
  • Carry an open fan in your left hand: Come and talk to me.

Images: The Fan Museum; George Wolfe Plank/The Condé Nast Collection, via Getty Images (Woman Getting a Hand-Kissing from a Man)

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Colour Code


1分快三玩法Fashion designer Cynthia Mak on her Hong Kong-based knitwear brand, Cynthia & Xiao

Colour Code


Fashion designer Cynthia Mak on her Hong Kong-based knitwear brand, Cynthia & Xiao

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Colour Code

June 26, 2019 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

image above: one of the looks from the Cynthia & Xiao autumn/winter 2019 collection

Launched in 2014, Cynthia & Xiao is a Hong Kong-based knitwear label founded by two female designers – Cynthia Mak and Xiao Xiao, who are from Hong Kong and Beijing, respectively. The duo met while studying at London’s Central Saint Martins. Distinguished by its bold and playful style, the label was selected as being one of the Ten Asian Designers to Watch at Fashion Asia Hong Kong 2018. For the spring/summer 2019 collection, called The Bad Habit, Cynthia & Xiao collaborated with Korean illustrator Minkyung Lee to create quirky and vibrant iconography. CDLP spoke with Mak about the challenges of cracking the Chinese market and why Hong Kong shoppers don’t always support their local designers.


Looks from the Cynthia & Xiao autumn/winter 2019 collection

Looks from the Cynthia & Xiao autumn/winter 2019 collection

Is the Mainland China the main focus for your brand these days? 

Well, we were showing in Paris, London and New York, but three years ago we went into the Mainland. We luckily found a showroom that could help us. The Mainland’s market is hard, because stores are very new; brands might not have a website, just WeChat. But sales have grown from our first season to now and it has been significant. The Mainland has overtaken my orders from Europe. And of course, the scale is different. We have around 25 points of sale there now. So yes, we’re focusing more and more on the Mainland. 

Do you design especially for the Mainland market? 

1分快三玩法We do tailor some of our designs, yes. I sometimes follow trends, but we care more about ourselves and our feedback from the buyers, who will tell us what sold well last season. We take that and move forward. But if the buyer says a particular fit works, or a certain colour, we will expand on those things. So we take about 50% of outside advice and add 50% of our own ideas. 

The media seems to portray the brand as being for fashionistas, yet Cynthia & Xiao doesn’t feel entirely that way. Would you agree? 

Yes. It’s for fun kinds of girls who feel comfortable with themselves. We do get some cool fashionistas who might wear our stuff and some Hong Kong KOLs [key opinion leaders]. But I don’t see our brand as a KOL thing. I’d rather have more people wearing and touching the product than a KOL endorsement. I also don’t have a massive inventory of stuff, so I don’t need some super high-profile KOL. It’s about the right balance. 

The Mainland is also such a different kind of vibe from Hong Kong. They like that “girl-next-door” look, which is very relatable. These influencers are really successful, but you don’t know who they are. It’s a different type of visibility. 

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What do they like about Cynthia & Xiao? 

We find colour just works. When we started out, the palette was more muted, with navy and grey – the idea being that pieces could be mixed and matched. But as we’ve grown, we’ve incorporated more colour – lots of it! [laughs] – like yellow, red, orange, neon green… stuff that’s really in-your-face. And they sell really well for us. The consumers seem to love it.  

What’s your best-selling piece? 

1分快三玩法Our favourite shape is something we call “oversize”. For some girls, it could literally be a dress, but you would have to wear something underneath. Let’s just say it covers the bottoms and is our best-selling shape no matter what we do. Then again, they also don’t want something too long. They like above the knee. If you cover the knee, you look short. And of course, the aim is to look both short and thin. In Shanghai, we always go shorter – a more fitted shape. Sometimes we make longer pieces, too. 

The signature Cynthia & Xiao rabbit and tiger characters, based on the personalities of the two designers, are also reimagined as they explore underwater worlds

1分快三玩法The signature Cynthia & Xiao rabbit and tiger characters, based on the personalities of the two designers, are also reimagined as they explore underwater worlds

Hongkongers don’t really seem to support their local designers or their artists for that matter, either. But isn’t the current digital age meant to be all about disruption, inclusion and youth? 

I think there are very good designers in Hong Kong, but they struggle to get visibility. Is that because of the people who read the papers or the advertisers; is it that people only want to read about Gucci? Is it just money? Or is there a genuine lack of curiosity? There’s also a feeling among local consumers that if they buy a Hong Kong designer’s clothes, it should cost less than HK$1,000. So the economics of that equation can just make it hard to survive for local designers, because the quality of fabric and design we produce can’t be sold too cheaply either. And if the designers don’t think the locals will buy their stuff, then perhaps that stops them from being so creative. It’s a catch-22. 

Also, many Hong Kong designers are creative, but they don’t go out of the city. I think you have to force yourself to do stuff out of your comfort zone; it helps you see more, get more exposure and get to know more people. In contrast, if you go to Shanghai, you will find the designers are very creative and dynamic. But then, the Mainland in some ways feels much more advanced than Hong Kong in terms of fashion and art. They are bold, eccentric and fun, and they have strong convictions. 

Would you say that Hong Kong’s consumer taste is changing? 

Yes in that it’s so much easier to buy clothes, with more choices – and that doesn’t necessarily mean buying on the high street, but from Taobao. So getting clothes is easier than it was; people can buy more and try more. But if Hong Kong people have the money to buy name brands, they will; they won’t run away from big brands. 

What are the signature pieces of Cynthia & Xiao? 

The rabbit and tiger prints. Right from the start, they have been selling well. In Chungking Mansions in Tsim Sha Tsui, there’s a really old man who teaches people how to crochet dolls. He did some for us recently, so now it’s like an evolution of the tiger and the rabbit. These are like alien rabbits, if you will.

Images provided to China Daily

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Abloh and Behold


1分快三玩法Creative polymath Virgil Abloh gets his first museum exhibition – at Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art

Abloh and Behold


Creative polymath Virgil Abloh gets his first museum exhibition – at Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Abloh and Behold

June 12, 2019 / by Sonia Altshuler

image above: Abloh concludes the autumn/winter 2019 Off-White womenswear runway show

Creative visionary Virgil Abloh is quite the polymath entrepreneur; he pioneers a practice that cuts across media and connects visual artists, musicians, graphic designers, fashion labels and architects. The Rockford, Illinois-born designer has his own brand, Off-White, a luxury streetwear label beloved of global hipsters; he designs furniture; he DJs; and he joined global luxury behemoth Louis Vuitton last year in a move that fashion watchers described as a changing of the guard. Lest you didn’t already know – and four years ago, many people didn’t – Abloh held another hugely influential creative role as style adviser to rapper and fashion maven Kanye West. 

It’s fitting, then, that Chicago’s Museum of Contemporary Art presents Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech1分快三玩法, as the first museum exhibition devoted to the 38-year-old. Abloh cultivated an interest in design and music from a young age, inspired by Chicago’s street culture. While pursuing his master’s degree in architecture from the Illinois Institute of Technology, he connected with West and joined his creative team to work on album covers, concert designs and merchandising. By 2013, Abloh had founded Off-White in Milan; five years later, he became men’s artistic director of Louis Vuitton in March 2018 following the departure of Kim Jones for Dior. 

Set in an immersive space designed by the research studio of Rem Koolhaas’s renowned OMA architectural firm, Figures of Speech offers an in-depth look at Abloh’s career-defining highlights, with projects for the likes of IKEA and Nike, and it all makes for premium Instagram viewing. Until September 22; mcachicago.org 

Looks from Louis Vuitton men’s collection (“Dark Side of the Rainbow”) for spring/summer 2019

1分快三玩法Looks from Louis Vuitton men’s collection (“Dark Side of the Rainbow”) for spring/summer 2019

Images: Courtesy of Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh. Photo: Enrico Ranzato; Louis Vuitton Malletier/Ludwig Bonnet; Photo: Bogdan Plakov; Photo: Hanna García Fleer; courtesy of the artist; Photo: Matthieu Genre; courtesy of IKEA

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