1分快三玩法

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Shall We Dance?


From the classical tango of the ’30s to the neo-tango songs of Gotan Project, you’ve surely heard the intoxicating rhythms of Argentina. Now it’s time to face the music and the mirada

Shall We Dance?


From the classical tango of the ’30s to the neo-tango songs of Gotan Project, you’ve surely heard the intoxicating rhythms of Argentina. Now it’s time to face the music and the mirada

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Shall We Dance?

March 31, 2017 / by Marine Orlova

When you push open the door of a milonga (the place where the tango is danced), you’re instantly transported to a parallel world of music, elegance, emotion and seduction. The true tango is much more than an old-fashioned and overly romantic social dance. Rather, it’s a peaceful meditation turned into elegant movements, a deeply shared intimacy and a real dedication to the music. But be careful – tango is truly addictive.

Improvise like a jazz musician.

1分快三玩法In a way, tango is quite simple to learn, as there are no steps or choreography to memorise; it’s all about improvisation and musicality. As renowned Argentine tango dancer Carlos Gavito said, “A good dancer is one who listens to the music... we dance the music, not the steps. You see, we are painters. We paint the music with our feet.” Tango is a disruptive walk; one step after the other, the dancers write their own story. They don’t know what they will do next. They live in an endless present of music, body and soul, fully open to the unexpected.

Walk like an urban feline. 

“You recognise a good dancer by the way he walks – not by his acrobatic figures,” said famous tango dancer Pablo Verón. Caminata (“the walk” in Spanish) is the alpha and omega of tango. It’s the first thing you’ll learn in a class and it can take years to master, but you’ll soon be obsessed with this feral way of moving. You may even feel the urge to practice as you make your way down the street. Grounded, head held high, with smooth yet resolute steps: you can certainly spot a tango dancer from afar.

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Move like an aikido master. 

Tango is often compared to the martial arts because of the balance and body awareness it requires. Indeed, tangueros work hard to stay centred and rooted with themselves while being totally connected to their partner. Because it takes two to tango, communication’s the key. You’ll often hear the alluring word abrazo – it’s the Holy Grail of tango. This cuddly embrace lets the energy flow through the couple and gives off a unique feeling: the stronger the connection, the finer the dance. Renowned Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges wisely defined the tango as “a direct expression of something that poets have often tried to state in words: the belief that a fight may be a celebration.” 

Travel like a citizen of the world. 

Tango is a worldwide community. Whether you’re in Buenos Aires, Berlin, Istanbul, Hong Kong or Paris, you’ll be able to find a milonga wherever you go. Not only is it a great way to meet new people, but it’s also a way to immediately understand each other thanks to the universal language of tango. No need to talk in a milonga – the mirada (eye contact) and cabeceo (a quick nod of the head) are enough for an invitation. Shall we dance? 

Where to tango in Hong Kong?

  • The Hong Kong Tango Academy
    Amico Studio, 3/F, 167–169 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai
    (tangohongkong.com)
  • Trio Spin Studio
    Rm 504-505, Enterprise Building, 228 Queen’s Road Central, Central
    (triospin.com)
  • Malevos Tango School
    11F/09 Bell House, Block B, Medilink Square, 525–543 Nathan Road, Yau Ma Tei
    (malevos-tango.com)
  • OtroTango Dance Studio
    Rm 1401, Cheuk Nang Centre, 9–11 Hillwood Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
    (otro-tango.com)

Happy Feet

Colourful, elegant and light – these tango shoes will turn each of your steps into a soft caress. And who said they’re only suitable for the ballroom?

Images: Comme il Faut; Tanguera; Guillermo Monteleone/photomonteleone.com (dancers)

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How to Cycle in Style


1分快三玩法Biking in style is an art. Next time you ride through urban terrain, cycle through these more sophisticated looks with greater confidence

How to Cycle in Style


Biking in style is an art. Next time you ride through urban terrain, cycle through these more sophisticated looks with greater confidence

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

How to Cycle in Style

February 24, 2017 / by Charlotte Ligiée

Women on bikes have always been a statement of style and freedom. At the end of the 19th century, when cycling was at the peak of its craze, women had to fight for their right to bestride this funny two-wheeled machine. They had to deal with a pair of difficulties: narrow-minded conservative types, who “worried” about women hanging out in town on their own, and heavy attire. Indeed, cycling with those huge Victorian dresses and tight-laced corsets was a near-impossible mission. It was time to reshape the woman’s wardrobe to be more comfortable and bike-friendly. 

American suffragette Amelia Bloomer advocated for the use of billowing trousers, inspired by the elegant Turkish ladies’ outfit; they’re now known as “bloomers”. Worn under knee-length skirts or alone, bloomers were perfect for cycling, but they soon unleashed anger among opponents of feminism. These cheeky ladies straddling in the park, wearing skirts divided in the middle – and talking to men they had not been formally introduced to – were revolutionary. The feminist Frances Willard, who learned to bike at the age of 53, proclaimed: “She who succeeds in gaining the mastery of the bicycle will gain the mastery of life.” 

Nowadays, women can freely enjoy the feeling on wheels; however, there aren’t many who ride a bicycle every day. In New York City, women represent only a quarter of Citi Bike (the city’s official bike-sharing system) riders – and one reason is that they worry about arriving sweaty at work. 

Fortunately, there’s a better way to ride a bike with grace and sophistication – and real bike lovers know what’s suitable or unsuitable for the road. Let’s have a look at the fashion dos and don’ts for a chic urban cycling experience.

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  1. Wearing a silk foulard is great for protecting your neck when biking. Moreover, the light fabric makes a lovely sight as it floats in the air. During the winter, however, heavy scarves are highly recommended if you don’t want to catch a cold.
  2. Carrying a bag on your shoulder isn’t very comfortable while cycling and it will slide down your arm constantly. Avoid this beginner’s mistake and choose one with a shoulder strap – or a nice backpack. You can also add a cute basket to your bicycle in order to store your more voluminous items.
  3. Wearing driving gloves is one of the cyclist’s privileges. When biking, your hands are more exposed to sun damage and cold-air aggression – and this is your alibi if you long for a dedicated pair. But another reason is that these short gloves exude sophistication and glamour. During the winter, warmer gloves are preferred. If your pair isn’t enough to keep you warm, you can layer up and wear silk gloves under them.
  4. If you think that a choice has to be made between stilettos and your bike, think again – a bike ride is the perfect chance to wear your most painful shoes. Why? Because you don’t have to walk in them. Whether you wear flats or five-inch stilettos, you won’t feel any difference, because you don’t put your heel on the pedal.
  5. Want to enjoy the wind in your hair and still look good all day? One option is to wear a turban, headscarf or headband. They will also keep your ears warm. A hat is also a good choice, but you should make sure that it’s firmly attached to your head, or it could fly off at the slightest acceleration.
  6. Sunglasses are a must when cycling. They protect your eyes from the sun, dust and other particulates. During the winter, they provide a nice shield against the cold wind, too. Choose a cat-eye shape to add a glamorous touch to your sports attire.
  7. There’s no doubt that cycling is great for shapely legs, but even if you have a pair that would make Cyd Charisse turn green with envy, you may want to put some clothes on – at least in public. Pay tribute to the fearless suffragettes by wearing trousers or, even better, follow their path by cycling in a dress – it could prove to be the new bloomers.
    Concerning trousers, choose short and tight. Loose and very long trousers can be elegant, but they’ll get stuck in the spokes and covered in bicycle oil. Shorts are also welcome – wear them with bare legs during summer or with warm tights during winter. For the authentic pin-up look, choose a high-waisted pair.
    When they’re not too long or too tight, skirts and dresses are well-suited to cycling, perfect for feeling the fresh air on your legs and tanning slowly during summer. However, avoid pencil skirts that will impede movement, as well as wrap skirts that are prompt to open up while cycling, unless you want to provoke a series of car accidents on your way to the office.

Images: Charlotte Olympia; Fifi Chachnil; Oliver Peoples; Heart Heart Heart; Maison Ernest; Le SLM Show/Sarah-Lou Marty

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Time for the Ladies


Following a difficult 2016, the industry shifted gears at this year’s SIHH watch gathering in Geneva – as traditional Swiss manufacturers targeted the market for women’s timepieces

Time for the Ladies


Following a difficult 2016, the industry shifted gears at this year’s SIHH watch gathering in Geneva – as traditional Swiss manufacturers targeted the market for women’s timepieces

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Time for the Ladies

February 24, 2017 / by Bell Leung

It’s no secret that 2016 was a tough year for the luxury watch world. Global sales fell dramatically, and many watchmakers responded by laying off staff and cutting back production. Conscious of that, this year’s offerings at Geneva’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in January were notable as a reaction to what had come before – more affordability, an even greater sense of innovation and an emerging trend towards prioritising women. 

IWC Schaffhausen, maker of the familiar Pilot’s watches, has made women’s pieces before. But this year heralded the relaunch of its Da Vinci line of timepieces after a decades-long wait, with two iterations especially for women. Given that the brand has spent most of the last two decades promoting a product “engineered for men”, the shift in tactic said much about changing trends in the world of haute horlogerie. 

A generally unexplored market for Swiss watchmakers, women’s timepieces are being embraced by traditionally masculine brands as they attempt to diversify, with houses such as Piaget and A. Lange & Söhne following IWC’s Da Vinci lead. Numerous other brands also put forth offerings that were either unisex or explicitly for women, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Hublot, Ulysse Nardin and Parmigiani Fleurier. 

But none seems to have been as successful as Audemars Piguet, which debuted the Royal Oak Frosted Gold for women at SIHH. Celebrating the 40th anniversary of the first women’s Royal Oak, designed by Jacqueline Dimier in 1976 – a variation on designer Gérald Genta’s initial 1972 model – this shining reinvention of an iconic watch, created in collaboration with Florentine jewellery designer Carolina Bucci and available in both white and pink gold, seemed to be the fair’s champagne moment.

Dimier remains one of the only named female watch designers of the modern era. She joined Audemars Piguet in 1975 and was appointed in-house head of design shortly after. Among her other missions, she successfully developed the manufacture’s designs, including the Royal Oak, into timepieces in tune with women’s changing tastes. She continued creating and developing watches for the brand until 1999. “I’m very happy to participate in this launch,” she says. “The Royal Oak is a timepiece that meets women’s tastes today like it did yesterday – and it will continue to do so tomorrow. It’s timeless and the Royal Oak Frosted Gold is the latest chapter in this ongoing story.” 

Meanwhile, Bucci, a former fine arts and jewellery design graduate in New York, returned to Florence after her studies and has spent the last 15 years working alongside local goldsmiths. She was thrilled by the project – and Dimier’s involvement. “I think it’s less common for watches to be designed by women than, say, fashion or jewellery – and that was even truer when Jacqueline Dimier designed the first Royal Oak for women,” she says. “Everybody knows about the quality and craftsmanship of Audemars Piguet, but perhaps by injecting this feminine sensibility, people will see a new side – something a bit more flamboyant and exuberant, with just as much attention to detail.” 

One challenge for Audemars Piguet’s craftsmen was applying Bucci’s Florentine finish, in which gold is beaten with a diamond-tipped tool to create tiny surface indentations, which give a sparkling effect similar to that of precious stones. It took months of collaboration between Bucci and the brand to alter the surface of the gold in such a way that it sparkles just right when catching the light, all while retaining the softness and flexibility of the Royal Oak’s bracelet. 

IWC revisited its 1980s design for the new Da Vinci collection, once again with a classic round case. The Da Vinci Automatic 36 and the Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36 are tailored to women, while the Da Vinci Automatic is a unisex model. At 36mm, the Moon Phase 36 features a moon phase complication, a semicircular crown and new lugs with moving horns to ensure that the strap fits perfectly round the wrist. The geometrical Flower of Life, the object of intensive study by Leonardo da Vinci, is engraved on the case back. It comes in three models, all with silver-plated dials: a red gold case with a bronze-coloured alligator leather strap; a stainless steel case with 54 diamonds on the bezel and a dark brown alligator leather strap; and a stainless steel case with a dark blue alligator leather strap. 

Meanwhile, the most exclusive of the Da Vinci Automatic 36 models for women is the Ref. IW458310, featuring an 18K red gold case and linked bracelet together with 54 pure white diamonds on the bezel. The gold-plated hands and golden appliqués harmonise well with the silver-plated dial, while the blue seconds hand provides a colourful highlight. The stainless-steel version set with 54 diamonds, Ref. IW458308, guarantees its wearer a stylish entrance with a raspberry-coloured alligator leather strap from Santoni, providing a striking colour contrast with the black displays on the silver-plated dial. With its dark blue dial and alligator leather strap, Ref. IW458312 features cool, understated blue that contrasts starkly with the polished stainless-steel case and elegant horns. The small blue date display and the rhodium-plated hands and appliqués blend harmoniously into the overall appearance. 

A. Lange & Söhne’s Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is a smaller version of the men’s model and contains a new movement: the manual-wound calibre L121.2. The asymmetric solid silver dial sets the stage for the luminous time and power-reserve indications, complemented by an outsized date, moon-phase display and day/night indicator. The model is available in white gold and black, pink gold and argenté, and platinum and rhodium case/dial combinations. 

On a lighter note, the prize for sheer innovation went to F.P. Journe, which gave out a few dozen Vagabondage watches – made of chocolate – to selected press. Each was elaborately decorated with edible gold leaf and was a one-to-one scale model of the Vagabondage III. They weren’t aimed specifically at women, but they certainly went down just as well as the watchmakers’ more conventional models – a perfect dessert to cap off this year’s SIHH. 

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Guys 'n' Ties


Time to put on the Ritz? You may think bow ties are for fashion daredevils only – but think again, gentlemen, and don’t get your brain in a knot. A bow tie expert helps show you the ropes

Guys 'n' Ties


Time to put on the Ritz? You may think bow ties are for fashion daredevils only – but think again, gentlemen, and don’t get your brain in a knot. A bow tie expert helps show you the ropes

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Guys ’n’ Ties 

February 24, 2017 / by M. O. 

Historically, bow ties were worn by surgeons and architects because, unlike neckties, they didn’t drop into their work. Long cherished by all sorts of dandies such as Oscar Wilde, Fred Astaire and the Duke of Windsor, bow ties have
suffered from unfair stereotypes for many decades. “It’s often considered to be a daunting fashion accessory, but it’s not,” says Mickaël-François Loir, the Frenchman who created acclaimed handmade bow tie brand Le Loir en Papillon five years ago. “If it’s mandatory for a dinner at the White House, a bow tie is also appropriate for casual wear. I never go out without one, even to fetch croissants.”

Tie it yourself

There are three basic kinds of bow ties: self-tied, pre-tied and clip-on. “Please forget about the childish clip-on ones; they are a fashion faux pas,” says Loir. “And to be honest, I’m not fond of pre-tied ones, either. They deny you the pleasure of tying your knot in a personal way.” You may find a plethora of online tutorials explaining how to properly tie your bow tie, but have no fear and keep it simple – a shoelace knot does the job effectively. Still, there’s one hard and fast rule to remember: the width of the knot must not exceed the width of your eyes.

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Night and day

White tie is required for the most formal of gatherings, while many an elegant evening requires black tie instead. For your daily elegant routine, however, ditch the etiquette and showcase your personal style. Dare to don a coloured bow tie made of a unique fabric – burgundy wool is perfect with a tweed jacket for a stroll in the countryside, while blue striped linen is a nice pick for a sunny walk along the seashore. And ladies, you don’t need to be left out of the loop. Why not get inspired by the quirky guise of Marlene Dietrich and steal your man’s favourite bow tie from time to time? 

Images: Marine Orlova (Mickaël-François Loir (upper left) with friends); Le Loir en Papillon (bow ties)

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Little Nouvelle Vague


1分快三玩法Heating up worldwide stages, Sucre d’Orge is a leading light in the new wave of burlesque performers – and she’s a whole lot more

Little Nouvelle Vague


1分快三玩法Heating up worldwide stages, Sucre d’Orge is a leading light in the new wave of burlesque performers – and she’s a whole lot more

Lifestyle > Fashion


Spreading her angelic wings

Spreading her angelic wings

 

Little Nouvelle Vague

February 3, 2017 / by China Daily

The seductive wave of a traditional fan barely hides the exotic curves that loom behind it. A delicate shake of the tail feather sets hearts aflutter, with bird-like movements that are only equalled in their fluidity by their sensuality. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself loosening your collar as you immerse yourself in the steamy world of Sucre d’Orge, the burlesque performer who’s taken Paris by storm.

1分快三玩法Walking into d’Orge’s house in the 18th arrondissement of Paris is akin to stepping into a time machine – her apartment has an unmistakably retro, art deco feel. Adorned with period furniture from the flea markets and vintage photographs of burlesque performers, it creates an atmosphere that perfectly matches her onstage persona. The reality is no less evocative, either, as Mademoiselle d’Orge emerges, clad in a flowing ’20s gown.

1分快三玩法“I’ve been a dancer since my childhood – classical, Argentinian,” explains d’Orge, as she delicately sips tea in her boudoir. “And I’ve always liked to discover new dance forms.” The form she’s specifically referring to isn’t new, but it’s enjoyed a rebirth in recent years. Burlesque dancing, in existence since the popular theatre of the 17th and 18th centuries, is currently having its moment – and d’Orge (whose name means “Candy Cane”) has been riding the wave of enthusiasm, bringing her evocative and playful style to audiences in Paris, Shanghai, New York, Milan and London. 

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Flaunting her feathers as Marie Antoinette

Flaunting her feathers as Marie Antoinette

Portrait of a lady

Portrait of a lady

The Indian tale of Radha and Krishna in love

The Indian tale of Radha and Krishna in love

Burlesque, unlike striptease, doesn’t involve total nudity – only partial – and tends to be highly theatrical in its delivery. It was this aesthetic allure that first aroused d’Orge’s curiosity. “One night, I was at a dance class and as I left, I saw these girls who were beautifully made up and dressed in gorgeous costumes,” she recalls. “I asked what class they were going to and they told me it was burlesque.” 

Like many burlesque performers today, d’Orge went to one class and was instantly hooked. “There are a lot of girls who love this; they love to dance, to laugh, to dream,” she says. “There are a lot of girls who want to learn it after seeing a show – not to perform, but to develop their femininity.” 

While striptease for a mostly male audience may have been characteristic of burlesque in its boom years, d’Orge says today’s audiences are increasingly composed of women. “Burlesque can send a message, poetic or artistic, to an audience that today is two-thirds female.”

Her essential accessories, including Serge Lutens perfume

Her essential accessories, including Serge Lutens perfume

To appease her numerous admirers, d’Orge has crafted an intricate, alluring and entertaining portfolio of performances that range from Marie Antoinette to a mechanical wind-up doll, and from a Bollywood dancer to an Egyptian queen. The fan has become her signature accessory, but anyone who sees her emote under (and alongside) the plumage of ostrich feathers can’t fail to be swayed by the panache of her chic performance. 

Whether you call it high art or seduction supreme, neo-burlesque has enjoyed a fantastic revival. The fashion world may have much to do with its spirited resurgence. For one, French shoe designer Christian Louboutin, with his trademark red-soled stilettos, is a big fan of cabaret and brought in filmmaker David Lynch for a fetish-style shoot, on which Louboutin chose girls from the Crazy Horse cabaret in Paris to wear his vertiginous heels.

Among a gaggle of performers, Mademoiselle d’Orge stands out as a glamorous presence indeed. All her corsets are made by top Parisian designer François Tamarin through his brand, Les Corsets de Paris, while her outfits are created by specialised costumiers. She works with renowned choreographer Larry Vickers (who frequently collaborated with actress Shirley MacLaine), although D’Orge does much of her own choreography for her routines. D’Orge even makes the occasional appearance at David Lynch’s semi-private nightclub in Paris, Silencio, which is modelled on a similar club he has on Mulholland Drive in Los Angeles. 

Sucre d’Orge’s cute retro flat

Sucre d’Orge’s cute retro flat

It’s natural to draws parallels with her famous counterpart, American burlesque performer Dita Von Teese, but d’Orge says their acts are very different, since she focuses on the dance itself. “Dita moves, she strips, she takes off her things – it’s an art, but there is no dance choreography,” explains d’Orge. Compared to the 1950s pin-up inspirations of most modern American burlesque, French burlesque tends to draw from a broader variety of intellectual and historical references.

Neo-burlesque’s success lies in its small-scale, under-the-radar intimacy that subliminally echoes a lifestyle culture so overly luxuried by labelled brands, that individuality and the experiential nature of recreation have taken hold among a new niche group. After all, what’s not to like: glamorous performances, couture costumes, haute theatre and a touch of good old-fashioned bespoke.

Beyond the dance, d’Orge is a true Renaissance woman. She studied commerce at the renowned ESSEC Business School in Paris, is a Chinese speaker who learned Putonghua in Beijing for two years, is a talented photographer and self-professed “Leica lover” – and she’s learning the lute. Really, is there anything this burlesque beauty can’t do?


 A lobby card from 1898 for a burlesque show in the US starring the Bon Ton Burlesquers

 A lobby card from 1898 for a burlesque show in the US starring the Bon Ton Burlesquers

Burlesque Brouhaha

Dating back several centuries, the burlesque tradition has seen numerous transformations throughout the years. Stemming from the Italian word burla, meaning “mock or make a joke of”, burlesque was originally intended as a brief comedic break in the commedia dell’arte (“comedy of craft”), an Italian form of entertainment that had become prevalent across Europe by the late 16th century. 

1分快三玩法During the height of the Victorian era, burlesque dancing reached its peak of popularity in London theatres. It mocked well-known shows such as Shakespeare plays, as well as popular ballets and operas, by using music, dance and classical performance to comedic effect. In 1868, the British Blondes troupe introduced Victorian burlesque to the US, shocking audiences by wearing tights on stage in New York. The sexy element soon became an essential component, as the striptease appeared in shows across the US and France; the earliest instance of nudity in burlesque was also performed in this era, as a woman removed her clothes while “looking for a flea”. 

This stripping-focused style of burlesque became a popular art form in the 20 th century, though this type of adult entertainment eventually fell out of favour in the 1970s. However, in the 1990s, a new kind of “neo-burlesque” movement appeared, inspired by the nostalgic glamour of the old days and with a focus on the art of the tease rather than the nudity.

Images: Linda Bujoli (Le Carmen); Tom Hagemeyer (wings); Le SLM Show (portrait of a lady); Stella Polaris (flat); Weemove (Marie Antoinette); Serge Lutens (perfume); Soazig Le Bozec (Radha & Krishna); Library of Congress, © 1898 by H.C. Miner Litho. Co., NY (Bon Ton Burlesquers)

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Choos Your Own Adventure


Jimmy Choo introduces the art of customisation with diamonds, Swarovski crystals, pearls and furry pom-poms

Choos Your Own Adventure


Jimmy Choo introduces the art of customisation with diamonds, Swarovski crystals, pearls and furry pom-poms

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Choos Your Own Adventure

February 3, 2017

Customisation is a continuing trend in fashion as more and more brands invite clients to express their individuality through their unique designs. A longstanding favourite among Hollywood’s elite, Jimmy Choo has launched a new capsule collection that allows fans to choose their shoes and the decorations. 

1分快三玩法“I was thinking about that giddy delight you see in children when they choose from a tray of sweets,” explains Sandra Choi, Jimmy Choo’s creative director. “I wanted there to be a sense of showmanship and an irresistible boldness throughout the cruise season. Designing and creativity are my passions, and I wanted to give our clients the chance to share this wonderful experience.”

1分快三玩法In the newly launched 2017 collection, the iconic shoe brand puts forth a plethora of styles, including the open-toed Max, the round-toed Macy and Dundee, and the open-toed Keely mule in silk satin. With its rich colours, embellishments and fine fabrics, the collection is pure enchantment for every shoe lover.

What makes it truly special is that you can add extra glamour to your pair through a menu of beautifully designed decorations, including diamonds, Swarovski crystals, pearls and furry pom-poms. Your style tells people who you are, so your personalised Jimmy Choos can also speak for you – get ready to put your best foot forward.

Images: Jimmy Choo

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Stocking Style


Making a comeback on the runways, pantyhose was a fashion necessity throughout much of the 20th century

Stocking Style


1分快三玩法Making a comeback on the runways, pantyhose was a fashion necessity throughout much of the 20th century

Lifestyle > Fashion


During the Second World War, there was a nylon shortage; here, a woman stands on a stool while a man carefully paints on her stockings

During the Second World War, there was a nylon shortage; here, a woman stands on a stool while a man carefully paints on her stockings

Stocking Style

February 3, 2017 / by China Daily

1分快三玩法When the spring/summer 2017 runways said “yes” to pantyhose with open-toed shoes, it was viewed as yet another example of an old-turned-new trend – hosiery is certainly no longer atop most women’s wish lists when it comes to fashion. But for much of the 20th century, it was an essential staple of a polished woman’s daily wardrobe. 

Pantyhose’s famous predecessors were stockings, which reached up to the thigh and generally needed to be supported by a garter; these tights first became popular among men before women started to wear them in the 18th century. As a new style emerged in tandem with the change in women’s social status in the 1920s, shorter skirts came into fashion, paired with stockinged legs – a trendy look of the day was a woman rolling her stockings down just below the knee and dusting rouge on the kneecaps. The enduring “fishnets” were introduced in the ’30s; brands such as France’s Gerbe, the UK’s Charnos and Italy’s Levante prospered during that period and continue to be at the forefront of hosiery style today. 

1分快三玩法In 1938, the invention of nylon in the United States revolutionised the industry. Initially used for toothbrushes, after nylon was introduced as a fabric at the 1939 New York World's Fair, nylon stockings became widely popular. Women swarmed stores to purchase the hosiery and four million pairs were sold in the first few days of their release. However, the Second World War meant that nylon was soon in short supply, as the fabric was sent to the battlefield in the form of tents and parachutes. 

1分快三玩法However, nothing can stop women from pursuing beauty. If they couldn’t buy nylon stockings, someone figured out that they could paint them on. Leg cosmetics created a fashion storm during wartime, allowing women to do make-up from their toes to their thighs, thus achieving the illusion of real stockings. Liquids, lotions, creams and sticks were all used to mimic a noticeable sheen.

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1分快三玩法Numerous brands got on board with “canned hosiery”, including Frances Denney (with Leg Make-Up Film), Revlon (Leg Silk), Helena Rubinstein (Leg Stick) and Harriet Hubbard Ayer (Stocking Lotion). There were even leg make-up bars, where women could purchase the cosmetics or get advice on how to apply them to their legs. Following the end of the war, though, nylon stockings were restocked on shelves and endless lines reappeared outside the hosiery shops. 

1分快三玩法There was only one problem – without squeezing into garters, there was no other way to hold the stockings up in the ’50s. Among numerous patents filed, the waist-to-toe leg garment, which we now know as pantyhose, was invented by a man in 1959 who created it at the request of his then-pregnant wife, who found it difficult to manage her stockings and garter belt over her expanding belly. 

But pantyhose didn’t truly burst onto the fashion scene until the miniskirt craze of the ’60s. Around the same time, tights were being produced by British manufacturer Aristoc and expanded in popularity after the invention of spandex, a synthetic fibre that allows leg garments to stretch. Another important innovation in 1977 came courtesy of an unusual source: Julie Newmar, the original Catwoman actress in the 1960s Batman TV series. She’s credited with patenting a special type designed to accentuate a woman’s behind – the “derriere-shaping” pantyhose. In 1977, Newmar famously explained to People magazine: “They make your derriere look like an apple instead of a ham sandwich.”

1分快三玩法In the ’80s and early ’90s, hosiery came in a wide range of colours, patterns and fabrics, and became the defining feature of a professional woman’s daily style. However, as office dress codes became more casual, many women abandoned pantyhose and embraced the freedom of bare legs. 

Fashion always goes in cycles, so it’s not surprising that the spotlight has shifted back to pantyhose again in recent years – it’s been seen on everyone from Hollywood stars to Her Royal Highness. In the last century, hosiery was not just an important part of a woman’s wardrobe, but also a statement of a proper lifestyle.

Prada collection with patterned tights, AW/16

Prada collection with patterned tights, AW/16

Images: Getty Images; Prada

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Giambattista Valli


The spring/summer 2017 collection delivers sophisticated and sexy in equal parts

Giambattista Valli


The spring/summer 2017 collection delivers sophisticated and sexy in equal parts

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Giambattista Valli

February 3, 2017 / by China Daily

The silhouette of the Italian designer’s eponymous label is well suited for any style-savvy woman. By making use of floral motifs and lacy black bras, Valli showcases the high art of bedroom finery in his spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection. But it’s more than just a sexy style. From high-neck tops and striped polished trousers to flowery skirts, Giambattista Valli makes the case for both the office and the weekend, bringing out the sophisticated essence of femininity – it’s no wonder famed human rights attorney Amal Clooney loves to wear this brand.

Images: Giambattista Valli

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Agnona


Truman Capote’s stylish inner circle is transposed onto the woman of today

Agnona


1分快三玩法Truman Capote’s stylish inner circle is transposed onto the woman of today

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Agnona

February 3, 2017 / by China Daily

Inspired by Truman Capote’s “philosophy of perfection” and his inner circle of “swans” – including Slim Keith, Gloria Vanderbilt and Babe Paley – creative director Simon Holloway interprets beauty through fine fabrics including fil coupé silk, blue lace and denim-effect crêpe cotton. The spring/summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection from the Milanese brand (Ermenegildo Zegna’s women’s counterpart) tells an intimate story of sensuality. As Holloway recently explained to Forbes, “It’s for a ‘swan’ of today.”

Images: Agnona

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Flair in the Air


1分快三玩法For flight attendants, even the sky hasn’t been the limit when it comes to fashion trends

Flair in the Air


For flight attendants, even the sky hasn’t been the limit when it comes to fashion trends

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Flair in the Air

December 9, 2016 / by China Daily

Image above: Taking to the skies with United Airlines flight attendants, 1939

The “Original Eight” flight attendants at Boeing Air Transport, 1930

1分快三玩法From nurse-inspired looks to stylishly professional cabin crew outfits, attire in the sky has changed significantly over the years. Unlike other uniforms, which often share a similar palette, the looks for flight attendants vary quite a bit. 

1分快三玩法Wherever you look, you’re bound to see all the colours of the rainbow. Take the bold orange outfits of Russian carrier Aeroflot; the sky-blue of Korean Airlines; the blazing-hot red of Virgin Atlantic, designed by Vivienne Westwood; the Singapore Girl’s traditional sarong kebaya for Singapore Airlines by Pierre Balmain; the striking stripes of Australian national airline Qantas; the classic blue-and-red scheme of Air France; or the red cape option for Colombian national carrier Avianca Airlines. 

Today you can spot each airline’s flight attendants from afar, but the uniforms originally signified nurses on board. In 1930, 25-year-old pilot and registered nurse Ellen Church appealed to the executives of Boeing Air Transport to hire women in the skies, who could help take care of passengers and calm their fears. Church and seven other women were hired by the airline. Known as the “Original Eight”, they dressed in dark blue suits with a cape and cap. Later, the “sky nurse” attire gave way to a lighter, more cheerful look, with a short-sleeved dress in white and a wool jacket in navy. 

In the 1950s post-war era, the “jet set” rose to prominence in the US as airlines targeted wealthy passengers. Flight attendant style also kept pace, as famous designers came on board to create the uniforms. Prior to being named exclusive couturier to Jacqueline Kennedy when she was First Lady of the United States, Oleg Cassini designed the uniforms for Trans World Airlines (TWA) in the 1950s.

1分快三玩法But Hollywood glamour really took to the skies in the mid-1960s. William Travilla, best known for dressing Marilyn Monroe, designed United Airlines uniforms from 1965 to 1968. Famously, the now-defunct US airline Braniff also brought Emilio Pucci on in 1965 to design the vibrant Gemini IV collection – and the looks only got wilder. The following year, Emilio Pucci presented the Supersonic Derby outfits to Braniff, featuring nylon jersey uniforms covered in Central American art motifs, paired with green boots and a bowler hat.

1分快三玩法Things weren’t only happening in America, of course. In 1962, Christian Dior brought appealing haute couture to Air France; in the late ’60s and early ’70s, the airline enlisted Balenciaga. Further east, Japanese couturier Hanae Mori, who began designing the uniforms for Japan Air in 1967, designed a one-piece miniskirt uniform in 1970 that raised hemlines – and eyebrows.

The playful vibe seemed to come to an end in the 1980s, when boxy power suits became the norm. Today, uniforms have shifted towards the hyper-professional with a touch of glamour. But, like all things fashion, they continue to evolve. Perhaps one day soon, those playfully bold designs of the ’60s and ’70s will make a comeback.

If you’re a fan of these lovely looks, check out the exhibition Fashion in Flight: A History of Airline Uniform Design, held at the SFO Museum in San Francisco International Airport until January 8.

The red-hot uniforms currently in vogue at Virgin Atlantic

Today’s striking Air France uniform by Christian Lacroix

From left to right: Qantas uniform by Yves Saint Laurent, 1986; United Airlines uniform by Stan Herman, 1976; Trans World Airlines uniform by Oleg Cassini, 1955; United Airlines uniform by Jean Louis, 1968

Images: SFO Museum; Air France; Virgin Atlantic

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